How to… – FABtotum https://www.fabtotum.com Tue, 31 Jul 2018 12:39:40 +0000 en-US hourly 1 https://wordpress.org/?v=4.9.8 Design and 3D print a robotic arm with Fusion360 and the FABtotum https://www.fabtotum.com/making-and-3d-printing-a-robotic-arm-with-fusion-360-and-the-fabtotum/ Thu, 22 Feb 2018 14:42:23 +0000 https://www.fabtotum.com/?p=126528/ Making and 3D Printing a robotic arm with fusion 360 and FABtotum Personal Fabricator

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Making and 3D Printing a robotic arm with fusion 360 and FABtotum Personal Fabricator

Design and 3D print a robotic arm with fusion 360 and the FABtotum

Today we take a look at a simple but interesting project that made a few months ago. As the title implies, we designed, printed, assembled and tested a 3 axis robotic arm.
Parametric CAD and 3D printing allowed to do almost all of this in a day or so.

This is part 1 of 2. The second part comes in next week. Let’s get into it.

We started by designing a modular arm, one that could be printed in multiple copies and bolted to make the primary arm.
This design was first used as a proof of concept on 5 axis machining we did back in 2016.
The objective here was to create a very simple, easy to print and rigid structure that could be used for simple object manipulation.
The structure for it won’t need to be extremely stiff but we designed the arm as stiff as possible anyway.

The arm ends with the motor holder on one side (standard nema 17) and a standard FABtotum chuck on the other. So that you can have compatibilty with the 4th axis chuck we designed a few years ago. (This was designed in fusion 360 too).

With all the parts in place it was time to export them to STL and into a slicing software. For this project we used Simplify 3D, but any will do.
We filled the build platform with all the parts needed to make two axis (i.e: two arms!).

We used the Print Head Pro with our Orange PLA filament. Nothing too fancy but pleasant nonetheless, and reminescent of industrial heavy duty machinery.

To 3D print the parts we took advantage of our small industrial cluster of FABtotum 3D Printers, a set of internet-connected units we always have ready for production, prototypes and personal projects.
We connected using the my.fabtotum.com interface and uploaded the updated design files.

The print itself was made without batch controls (all parts at the same time). This allows to use the entire build surface since parts can be as close as possible between them.
In the next images you can see the build plate extracted to show how much space was still available should we wanted to make a fourth axis as well.

Once removed from the build plate, the parts were assembled with bolts seaparately.

On the third image of the previous row, a variant created with the 4th axis chuck attached.

The arm will be mounted on a single motor (axis A) that will rotate around the vertical axis. The other two motors will respectively lower the arm and tilt the forearm.

With those 2 orange arms assembled we proceeded bolting the two together, making the B and C axis respectively.
The range of motion of this arm isn’t comparable with 4-5 axis robots but it’s enought to do some simple pick and place of objects.

This will indeed be the application we will implement in part 2.
In Part 2 we’ll create the base and the forearm in fusion, design and build a simple electromagnet so that the arm is able to pick up metal objects from a container and deposit them in another.

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3D printing for the industry – Jigs and Fixtures https://www.fabtotum.com/3d-printing-industry-jigs-fixtures/ Thu, 12 Oct 2017 10:55:48 +0000 https://www.fabtotum.com/?p=124128/ 3D Printing for the industry

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3D Printing for the industry

3D printing for the industry: Jigs and Fixtures

There are many uses for 3D printing in the industrial field.
One way to do so is by using directly 3d Printing, i.e. directly making parts for your products.
Another way to use 3D printing “indirectly” is as a mean of supporting manufacturing and assembly efforts in the production line.

In fact, one of the easiest ways to incorporate digital manufacturing in the production line is in fact by using 3D printed jigs and fixtures to optimize the production workflow.

3D printed Fixtures as ergonomic aids

Jigs are usually used to make other operations easy and straightforward.
Like the example on the right (a support to allow assembly of a PCB board), jigs can be used to assist assembly or diagnostics of one particular part.

In this particular case ergonomics considerations are used to make the assebly easier by tilting the board and fixing it.
This kind of jig has a very limited design and production cost and can be made in a few hours.
The benefits of this kind of parts is measured by the amount of time is saved each time (a few seconds or minutes ) at a time, multiplied by days.
the results are several hours saved in a typical assembly line each month.
On top of that a better assembly protocol can be astablished (by presenting the part in a particular way that is easy to assemble) and thus reducing potential issues and QA defects.

3D printed Fixtures as assembly aids


Another example is the one used as a fixture  here: a support for assemblying a complex object.
A fixture is then used to place the part in place and  assisting the worker in the assembly phase.

just like the other example above the main advantages are the following:

  • Parts fit only their designated spots (reduced errors, misplacements)
  • Quickly populate the assembly with parts (efficiency boost)
  • Parts are correctly oriented,spaced and can be fastened/glued togheter with no human error. (improved precision)

Design guidelines


When designing a fixture a lot of things should be taken into consideration:

  • ergonomics: how to make the fixture ergonomic to handle/use
  • tolerances
  • assembly procedure

Thankfully 3D printing allows to iterate multiple versions of the same jig/fixture in a matter of hours so that changes can be made.

the Jigs and fixtures projects can be saved and kept in one’s own archive to be used when needed.

3D printed jigs for manufacturing: a case study


Jigs are used to fix the object to work on from moving relative to the tool.
In this example we’ll take a look at how design, manufacture and deploy a jig for retooling of a plastic case part.

The problem that was solved with 3D printing was to hold a piece for CNC milling on a ABS plastic case.
The Jig was created with a CAD modeling tool and tested in a CAM environment in order to plan the gcode sequence.
As a result all positions and offsets (including home position) were accounted for directly in the design phase.


The  part to be milled is positioned


The support is designed around the part


A CAM simulation can be run with the jig and part assembled.

Since the design phase is relatively quick in a CAD environment, more time can be dedicated to iterate the design phase with a physical prototype.
In this case the position of the part and the snug fit we wanted to achieve was essential for this kind of milling processes on an high number of pieces.

Finally, as the images shows, the CAM itself can be simulated with the digital design itself to keep quality,safety and usability considerations as an high priority concern.
While not this is the case in this example, The jig itself could be even considered sacrificable during certain operation, so that a part of the jig itself is milled to free the part or to reach certain spots.

Once ready the jig is installed in the desired offset. This offset can be defined earlier using the CNC table posizion or empirically measured later.
The jig has holes and a alignement slot to allow correct orientation on the CNC plane.

Once the Jig is placed and the part locked in place, the CNC is calibrated and homing is performed.
the CNC jog can then be run and the part exctracted manually or automatically later.
This process can be chained and modified to work with humand and autonomous workers in a always-flexible and expandible workflow.

The related 3d drawings can be saved after a test run and the project will be available for manufacturing, replication and expansion when and where needed.
The video below shows some of the processes outlined in this article.

Conclusions


Some final considerations & conclusions on the topic are the following:

  • 3D printing makes creating Jigs and fixtures easy and inexpensive
  • Different 3D printing technologies can be combined with machined parts to make complex fixtures with parts in tolerance.
  • With 3D printing jigs and fixtures can be considered for a very wide range of operations both manual and automated as well as hybrid operations on the piece.
  • CAD and CAM design of a Jig and the related CNC machining operation can be combined in one design environment and tested in few hours.
  • 3D printing jigs allow to iterate multiple designs in house.
  • Jigs designs can be stored and 3dprinted when and where needed.
  • Sacrificable fixtures can easilby be introduced as much as permanent ones.
  • jigs and fixtures allow control of the process, precision as well as safety and ergonomics for the operator.
  • jigs and fixtures are responsible for a sensible reduction in manufacturing costs such as man hours and defects.

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Multicolor 3D printing with FABtotum and Palette+ https://www.fabtotum.com/multicolor-3d-printing-with-fabtotum-and-palette/ Thu, 06 Oct 2016 14:15:51 +0000 https://www.fabtotum.com/?p=125408/ How to use Palette+ of Mosaic Manufacturing with FABtotum Personal Fabricator

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How to use Palette+ of Mosaic Manufacturing with FABtotum Personal Fabricator

FABtotum and Palette+, Soluble supports and Multimaterial printing


Getting started


In order to use Palette+ with FABtotum Personal Fabricator we suggest to follow these steps.

  1. Download the Palette+ Bowden tube adapter for FABtotum Printing Head PRO and print it. Once you have it printed, insert it over the pushfit lock of the Printing Head PRO, then fix it with M3x10mm bolt and M3 nut. Don’t tighten it too much, it should be just fine.
  2. After calibration you want to print, finally! Check here to download the multicolor models or here to convert the existing model into a multicolor one. Upload the models to Cura, select “Dual extrusion merge” by clicking each model. We advise you to set up at least 3 lines of skirt, to prevent the oozing lost. The procedure afterwards is pretty much same as for calibration. Preheat the Printing Head Pro, take out the teflon tube from the adapter clip, start multicolor splicing, hold the magnet until the filament exits the teflon tube, load it to Printing Head PRO, insert the teflon tube. This time you should check Palette+ display, that shows you the amount of filament to extrude. Use Jog to do it, trying to get as close to 0mm as possible. Do not extrude the exact amount of material written there, instead try to go slowly the last 5mm to be precise. This affects the perfection of the first layers. When achieved 0mm, use Palette+ dial to confirm loading filament. Start print normally.
  3. In case you want to use Palette+ to print multicolor model with soluble material as support, read the paragraph below to slice it properly.
  4. After each printing we suggest you to unload the filaments from Palette+ using Utilities-Unload materials option in its display.
  5. You may want to optimize your calibration by following this article. Note that you have to write down the Ping values during the print ongoing.

Mosaic Manufacturing has prepared a very informative article on Palette+ first steps setup. We would advise some comments on how to apply this generic setup to FABtotum Personal Fabricator:

  1. Position the Scroll Wheel with Velcro square on the left side, near the top/center.
  2. Instead of the provided clip for direct drive extruder you want to use the adapter that you’ve printed and installed over the Printing Head PRO. Insert the Palette+ teflon tube in the adapter. Make sure it does not move out by itself.
  3. We suggest to use the latest calibration model that is provided by Chroma when you start its Calibration guide (instead of the Calibration Cube offered to download from the website). Use Cura 15.04.6 to slice the model (here is the Cura profile for using Palette+). Save the gcode and load it to Chroma. Select the filament type and the color, then click Save for Printer. You are going to have the file to copy to Palette+ SD card, and the modified gcode file to upload to Project manager in FABUI. After that, preheat the Printing Head to 200°C, take out Palette+ teflon tube from the adapter clip, start the multicolor splicing, then hold the magnet so that the material goes on in the teflon tube. Once it exits the tube, release the magnet (Palette+ should stop generating material and wait for you to load material in the Printing Head), pull gently about 12 cm of the filament from the tube (Palette+ will generate some material, try not to pull too much), insert the filament in the Printing Head PRO using the lever on the back of it. Then release the lever, insert the Palette+ teflon tube in the adapter clip and use Jog in FABUI to extrude material until you see the change in color, as described in Chroma. Try to extrude small quantities of 1 mm per time so that you achieve maximum precision of the calibration. Honestly, it requires some patience. Once you see the extruded filament to change color, stop extruding, follow the instructions in Chroma and Palette+ screen. After the print you obtain two values to insert to Chroma profile. You may want to import the profile that we provide here.

Using PVA soluble supports along with 3 materials


Using Palette+ for 3-material printing with PVA as support requires a little bit of fiddling with cura.

Mosaic Manufacturing offers a very useful device that allows to print using up to 4 different materials, with just one extruder. That provides a great possibility for 1-extruder printers to create not only multicolor objects, but also to use water-soluble material as support for the overhangs and bridges. After the printing such object is being post processed with water so that the supports are gone and the pure model remains in perfect shape.

However here is a problem that can arise during the print of a 3-color model with the 4th material as support.

After configuration of Cura according to manual (that is very informative, in fact), we can load a multi-color model that consists of 3 different models:

In Cura 15.04.6 we should select each model and choose “Dual extrusion merge”, which makes Cura set a different extruder for each model, keeping them together though

 

Good, we have 3 models associated to 3 different extruders. But once we decide to have the 4th material as support, Cura 15.04.6 does not allow to do it (starting from Cura 2.x generation there is a setting to choose the proper extruder for the support material). In fact, it is possible to choose only between the first and second extruder, but that means we associate the support and the model to be printed with the same extruder (the same material):

In case we want the support to be water-soluble we experience the following situation where one of the models is going to be eliminated together with the supports:

One way to solve this problem is to create a tiny model, associate it with the support material and then merge it with the other 3 models. I created a simple rectangle 5x5mm large and 0.2mm high, so that it will cause only the first layer of the print:

Cancel all the models loaded to Cura. This new model named tri_support.stl should be loaded the first:

Then load the three models for printing and merge them as before. Check that the Support dual extrusion is set for the first extruder.

After saving the gcode and loading it in Chroma, we obtain thew following result:

The soluble material is now associated only with the tiny rectangular and the supports, that will dissolve during the post processing.
The FABtotum and the Palette+ can both be now initialized with all the corresponding filaments loaded and the print launched as usual.

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Design PCB using Laser Head, Tinkercad and Autodesk Eagle https://www.fabtotum.com/design-pcb-using-laser-head-tinkercad-autodesk-eagle/ Thu, 06 Oct 2016 12:54:12 +0000 https://www.fabtotum.com/?p=124324/

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Tinkercad + Eagle + Laser Head : first steps

A new tool to design PCB from sketches is Tinker Cad Circuits.

This software is a free and easy way to design PCB and emulate them. Together with Autodesk Eagle (free 30 days trial is available on Autodesk website) and FABtotum’s Laser Head it allows to design PCB easily.
Tinker Cad allows to export Eagle’s compatible sketches. Eagle is one of the most common softare used to for PCB making.

This step-by-step guide will show you how to have all the needed files from your sketch and how to convert them in order to correctly use them with FABtotum’s Laser App, the online software you received bundled with your Laser Head.
First of all, create an account on Tinker Cad circuits. Once ready, you can start realizing your sketch, by selecting your bread-board and placing all components as you can see in the sample image. In our example we will realize a simple voltage regulator (or AVR) with a LED output.

Once all components have been placed, you need to connect them with conductive wires. You should get something similar to the photo you can see next here. When all parts are correctly linked you can emulate the circuit by clicking on “Start Simulation” or clicking su “Export” – as for our example – to create the PCB. The file will be saved as .brd.

To design PCB from the saved file, open Autodesk Eagle and open the Tinker Cad Circuits downloaded file, following the path “File -> Open -> Board.

Creating the Layout on Autodesk Eagle

  • Open Autodesk Eagle

  • Open the file

    To open the *.brd file, click on “File -> Open -> Board:

  • Editing

    Once done, a new window will pop up: this will allow you to design a PCB with components all set to realize the final layout.

  • Proceed by placing all components and setting the PCB’s dimentions according to your design. See the image as an example.

  • Routing

    You then need to draw the tracks: you can do this manually  or alternatively you can use the “autorouting” function (for all details please refer to Autodesk Eagle’s guide). When all tracks are ready, you should get something similar to this.

  • Exporting

    Export the layout to be able to laser engrave with your FABtotum Core: click on the “ULP” icon to open the following pop up window. Select “cam2image.ulp”

  • Select “layout2.cam” from next screen.

  • Output

    On next screen, settings should be like: (FileType = .bmp, flag on Monochrome, Resolution DPI = 600).

Post-processing and Preparation

Post-processing and Preparation

Start the job with Laser Head and FABtotum


You’ll need to use a different application for the design of the PCB. Our advice is to use a proper guide, even if there won’t be the same example, so tha thte engraving task can be done step by step.

Please refer to that guide for detailed instructions and further information.


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PCBs making with FABtotum https://www.fabtotum.com/pcbs-making-fabtotum/ Wed, 05 Oct 2016 10:39:53 +0000 https://www.fabtotum.com/?p=124024/ How to make PCBs

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How to make PCBs

PCBs making with FABtotum


How To: Single sided PCB laser etching with FABtotum Core and its Laser Head.


To create a PCB, using photosensitive boards and a FABtotum Core, you need tools and devices as follows:
• FABtotum Core (or previous version)
• Laser Head
• Photosensitive Copper Board
• Sodium hydroxide (NaOH)
• Ferric acid (FeCl3)
• Latex gloves
• Trays and pliers of non-metallic material

You should always operate in a well-ventilated area and wear a workwear and latex gloves. The process involves the following steps:
1. Extraction of MASTER ARTWORK from electronic CAD software;
2. Convert MASTER ARTWORK to a compatible format for the FABtotum application for PCBs;
3. Upload the MASTER ARTWORK on the FABtotum’s online application for PCBs;
4. Etching of the PCB with FABtotum and LASER head;
5. Board envelope;
6. Drilling, cutting and assembling components.


The extraction of the MASTER ARTWORK for convenience is made in image format, this option is available on most electronic CADs. In the used software, for example, the export of MASTER ARTWORK is in .bmp format:

Export Master Artwork for PCB

Choose the highest resolution, which should be 600 DPI and select only the layers you need for the engraving: “bottom copper” and “board edge”:

The extraction of the MASTER ARTWORK for PCB

Make sure to know the width of the PCB; the image should look like the one here below:

Image for PCB

In case of a multi PCB board, with a simple photoeditor (Paint works fine as well) it is easy to make a small panelizing as the one you can see below. Make sure to calculate the right width again:

Next step is to convert the image into a file that FABtotum app can correctly postprocess. The chosen extension is .jpeg. You will need a again a photo editor: a free and open source example is GIMP.

The image below shows how to export the file to jpeg.

You then need to load the .jpeg file on FABtotum’s online app in order to correctly generate the GCODE for laser engraving:

Upload the image and make sure to write the final width of the PCB in the shown box:

Choose the right profile, this time you’ll pick “PCB engraving SMT hi-fidelity, Positive Photoresist [PCB copper ciad]”, then generate the g-code:

Once you have the gcode and you have it saved on your pc, upload it on the FABtotum. Place the  photosensitive board on the Hybrid Bed and the tip of the Laser Head 2mm far from the board. The task will (always) start from front-left corner. The entire etching process should be run with low or no lights to gain precision and increase final quality.

Once the engraving is completed, dip the board in a solution of water and Sodium hydroxide in a percentage between 5 and 10%.
The process will take less than a minute: hydroxide will remove the unnecessary photoresistant material (the one that has not been lasered), leaving the PCB MASTER clearly visible:

Rinse the board with water, dry it.

You will then need to proceed with dipping the board into ferric acid: this will remove the copper layer that has not been lasered and is not a part of the “MASTER ARTWORK”. After this step the pattern will be even clearer.
The ferric acid must be enough to cover the whole board (but avoid adding too much in order to preserve quality of the final work). The copper erosion process depends on the dimension of the board; it takes more than 10 minutes:

Rinse and dry the board again, then clean it with acetone:

Next steps are cutting, drilling and soldering components: to drill the vias you can use the Milling Head, but that’s another story!

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